Author: Niki Kozak

Canada, eh?

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Travel6 Comments

For the past two weeks we deliberated where to go next when we emerged from the Erie Canal at Oswego, NY. Our initial plan was to go west to Lake Erie, see family  and friends, then up through Detroit and on to Lake Michigan.

But then we heard from other boaters that the Trent-Severn Waterway and the Georgian Bay in Canada were renowned for their beauty and should not be missed. We were so torn…

After much thought (and sadness that we’ll miss family on Lake Erie), we decided to make a run to Canada. We hope my cousins and uncle will visit us again in other locations!

We are now in Trenton, Ontario after cruising 10 hours across Lake Ontario. Captain Craig chose a splendid day for the crossing and the lake was smooth as glass…no seasickness for Niki or the kitties 😀

Oswego lighthouse
Sunset at Oswego
Calm seas!
So nice we napped!
Deepest water we’ve been over yet!
Quarantine flag raised in the middle of the lake, at the border

After we cleared customs (just a quick phone call) we took down the yellow quarantine flag and raised the Canadian courtesy flag. Our big American flag still flies at the stern (back of the boat).

If you’ve never heard of the Trent-Severn before (join the club!), here is a Google map. It’s a continuous waterway that consists of lakes, rivers and 45 locks and connects Lake Ontario to the Georgian Bay and Lake Huron. (Didn’t think you’d be getting a geography lesson, did ya?)

After the Georgian Bay (rumored to be glorious) and the North Channel, we’ll skip over to Mackinac Island in northern Michigan. At that point we’ll be just a hop away from Craig’s home state of Wisconsin where we plan to hang out for a month or so.

We welcome visitors anywhere along this route. Come see us and take a cruise on Joy Girl!

We’ve Got It Locked Up

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Travel3 Comments

We received a few inquiries about how we are faring in the Erie Canal, so we apologize for the delay in this post. After a full day of locks we were just too tired to write!

Leaving Waterford, NY the first day, Captain Craig was nervous for Joy Girl as we heard horror stories of out-of-control boats ramming others, hull scratches from the lock walls, locks breaking, etc. But we’ve had great neighbor boats, the locks are not too turbulent so it’s fairly easy to keep Joy Girl steady, and things have run smoothly.

Here’s the drill: we drive through the narrow lock gate, secure Joy Girl by either grabbing a line that drops down from the top or wrap a line around a cable that extends the length of the wall, then hang on, keeping the boat near the wall. The lock then slowly fills with water. The tallest lock lifted us up 40 feet.

Canal on the left, dam on the right
One of two lift gates in the country
Closing gate
Most gates swing open like this
Water filling
Sometimes, we grabbed the ladders with boat hooks to control Joy Girl as the water filled the lock
Niki holding Joy Girl steady
Captian Craig helping to control Joy Girl with the engine and thrusters

One afternoon – while Niki took a nap out of sheer exhaustion – Craig toured the hundred year old Lock #14 (the canal was begun in 1817). The very friendly and informative lock master named Chris took him on an extensive tour of the lock’s inner workings and mechanisms. While they were talking, a tug boat came into the lock and, under careful supervision, Craig was allowed to open the valves and run the lock. Many captains go through the locks but not many are privileged to operate them!

Chris, the lock master
100 year old DC generators (that still work)
Craig with the generators
Opens and closes the gates and controls the valves
More 100 year old lock controls
Craig opening the lock

We have been through 23 locks so far…whew! Since First Mate Niki does most of the line handling, she is now pooped (although not too pooped to party!)

About the canal itself…it’s pretty, filled with Cottonwoods and deciduous trees. But if I am brutally honest, I was spoiled by the East Coast. After a day of travel, it was wonderful to visit world-class cities like Charleston, Annapolis and New York City. Upstate New York is a quieter, country atmosphere and, unfortunately, there is not a lot of money or industry here anymore and the towns are struggling.

Erie Canal beauty
There are many low bridges across the canal, which required us to lower our mast and antennas
Joy Girl at Utica, NY
Canal maintenance tugboats
Niki relaxing after yet another lock!

We have nine more locks to go before we arrive in Oswego, NY, located on Lake Ontario and the end of the New York state canal system for us. For now, we are taking a much needed three day break in Brewerton, NY in a sweet marina called Ess-Kay Yards.

Tomorrow, we do not travel…ahhhhh!

The Hudson River Line

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, TravelLeave a comment

I’m taking a Greyhound on the Hudson River Line. I’m in a New York state of mind…Billy Joel

As we traverse up the Hudson River we haven’t seen any buses but, to Craig’s joy, we have seen many Hudson Line trains, both passenger and cargo. River traffic is light with only a few enormous barges quietly sliding by. Old lighthouses pepper the landscape.

There is a deep peace that settles on the Hudson after the high paced energy of New York City. It doesn’t take long for the millions of people, the noise and the lights to fade away into stillness, mist and greenery.

Our anchorage
Train
Sunset at anchorage
Barge
West Point and an enormous barge
West Point
Lighthouse
Lighthouse
Sailboat

Coolest thing for me, after singing Billy Joel songs all week – we met the couple who now lives on the Florida Bay Coaster that Billy Joel owned called “Red Head”.  Got to tour the boat, which was 1,400 square feet and built like iron box!  Billy used to have 2 Harley’s on it which could be lifted out with the crane at the front of the boat. No frills for Billy, just a tough, almost commercial level, motor vessel.

We are now in Waterford, NY, at the beginning of the Erie Canal. Successfully went through our first lock today but no photos since we were pretty nervous, will take some soon! Should take us a few days to get to Oswego, NY on Lake Ontario…

I Love New York!

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Travel8 Comments

I haven’t been to New York since my teenage years. I loved it then but I wondered if my taste or the city had changed after all those many (!) decades.

But, no. It’s still absolutely amazing and was worth every hour of that icky open ocean ride we had to endure to get here.

What a thrill to drive Joy Girl into New York Harbor! We expected hundreds of huge commercial ships to terrify us but, surprisingly, only a few large barges were anchored out and a few ferries and tour boats passed us. We motored past Lady Liberty, Manhattan, up the East River and under the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges, then into the Hudson. It was a glorious day for photos!

Captian Craig
Craig
Niki
Lady Liberty
Lady Liberty
Ellis Island
Lower Manhattan
Lower Manhattan
Lower Manhattan
Brooklyn Bridge and Freedom Tower
Manhattan Bridge
Empire State Building

We docked Joy Girl at the 79th Street Boat Basin on the Hudson river. Right next to beautiful Riverside Drive and just west of Central Park, this marina was a fabulous location to launch into the city.

We pedaled, walked and metro’d through NYC for two days and crammed in as much city as possible. We saw the Broadway theaters, Times Square, 9/11 memorial, the financial district, Battery Park, the government district, Chinatown, Little Italy, SoHo, Grants Tomb, and the never ending stream of breathtaking residential architecture that graces the streets.

Times Square
9/11 Memorial
Central Park
Chinatown
Little Italy
SoHo
City Hall
Supreme Court
Residence
Police Dept
Grants Tomb
Residence
Residence
Residence
Residence
Residence
Residence
Ellis Island Registration Room
Ellis Island beds

I loved it all. Craig isn’t a city guy so he wasn’t so thrilled, and we both agree NYC is not as bike friendly as we’d hoped. But I loved walking around, absorbing all I could. There is still so much more to see, but that just means we’ll have to go back to visit again!

And now we go up the Hudson River toward Albany, NY…

 

New York State Of Mind

On By Niki KozakIn Cool Places, TravelLeave a comment

Today we successfully made the ocean run from Atlantic City to New York…11 hours on swells, waves, and fog, traversing the Jersey Shore. We couldn’t travel through the New Jersey ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) because it hasn’t been maintained and it’s too shallow for Joy Girl. So, to the ocean we went…

We don’t like to be negative but we would never recommend Atlantic City to anyone…such a surreal place with unkempt casinos and scary slums just one street away from the boardwalk. We won’t return there.

Atlantic City

For tonight, we congratulated ourselves on a tough day at Cole’s Dockside Restaurant on Staten Island:

Tomorrow: New York City! I found out that New York is very bike friendly so we’ll be cycling through the Big Apple. Billy Joel is running through my mind…

Another bit a good news: I’ve trained the kitties to know that when we stop for the day, they get…TREATS! The minute we stopped the boat today, they ran downstairs (instead of being frozen in fear) to get their kibble. We were happy to see them so lively the minute we stopped for the day.

Happy weekend to you!

 

The Sailing Capital: Annapolis

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Travel4 Comments

Did you know Annapolis, Maryland, is considered the Sailing Capital of the World? We’ve never seen so many sailboats, thousands of them lined the channels! This is a typical marina – mostly sailboats and only a few power boats. Joy Girl was lonely for her kind.

Last week in Virginia we saw Jamestown (the first English settlement) and Yorktown (where the final battle for our independence was won). Our American history tour continued in Maryland, which was home to four signers of the Declaration of Independence, plus George Washington resigned his commander in chief commission in Annapolis after the war. This was very significant because it was thought he might retain his power and rule like a king but, instead, he laid his military authority down to Congress and the American people and therefore solidified the foundation of freedom for our new nation.

A beautiful metal sculpture stands where they believed he retired and returned to private life. They still have his handwritten speech…it was quite moving to see such humility in the man who was to become our first President.

It was Commissioning (graduation) weekend at the Naval Academy so white-uniformed midshipmen were everywhere and we were excited to see their beautiful chapel, visit the museum and eat lunch at the Academy Drydock restaurant.

10,500 pound anchor from the Spanish-American war
Chapel exterior
Chapel interior
Drydock restaurant
From the 1600’s, one of the oldest ship scale model in the world
From the 1600’s, a bone ship model of Horatio Nelson’s “Victory”

Because it was commissioning weekend, the Blue Angels performed over Annapolis! Joy Girl, along with hundreds of other boats, anchored at the mouth of the Severn River to watch the show. Unfortunately, Niki’s tummy was extremely unhappy for several hours as we bobbed around like a cork while boats of every size and shape wrestled for a spot to anchor. But after everyone settled down, the water was fine and the Angels screamed overhead.

This port of call was made even better by a visit from my old friend, Maureen McAuliffe, who drove down from DC to see us. We had wonderful dinner on the waterfront.

This afternoon we plan to arrive in Cape May, New Jersey!

Naval Norfolk

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Travel6 Comments

Cruising up the Elizabeth River into Norfolk, Virginia our mouths dropped open as we gazed up in awe at the enormous Norfolk Naval Shipyard. One of the oldest and largest shipyards in the world, it specializes in repairing, overhauling and modernizing ships and subs. The Yard stretches on for miles and miles, one huge warship after another. Joy Girl felt like a pipsqueak beside them.

View from our marina
Norfolk Naval Yard
Norfolk Naval Yard with sailboat
Ike

We had the privilege of boarding one of these military marvels as the USS Wisconsin has been retired, is open for tours, and was moored a short walk from our marina. This gigantic girl, nicknamed Wisky, is 887 feet long, 108 feet wide and was crewed by as many as 2,800 men. She had nine 16 inch guns that fired 2,700 pound shells. She fought in WW II, Korea and in Operation Desert Storm – an epic battleship.

USS Wisconsin
Front
Helicopter pad
Guns and bullets
Huge chains!
Sailor bunks

Norfolk made us glad that these warships are on our side! Waterside Marina was smack dab in the midst of downtown, in the epicenter of everything, and surrounded by military might. It was quite the visit!

Where Is Joy Girl?

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Joy Girl, Travel11 Comments

For our friends and family who wonder “Where are those crazy Kozaks now?” we’ve created a Travel Map that displays our past route and current location. You can always find it by clicking the link “Where is Joy Girl?” at the top of our blog and you can view it here now:

https://joygirladventures.travelmap.net/

We also get a lot of questions about the kitties and are happy to report that they are adjusting well and now sleep soundly through calm waters and no longer freak out in rougher seas. They are doing great!

Today we plan to harbor at Manteo, Roanoke Island then rent a car and drive over to the Outer Banks to see Kitty Hawk, the Wright Brothers Memorial, Nags Head and Cape Hatterus. We’re very excited to see those historic locations!

 

Cape Of Fears

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Travel4 Comments

We spent a few days on Bald Head Island, North Carolina, the home of Cape Fear. Wow, what a little piece of paradise.

Bald Head Island is only accessible by boat so there are no cars, just golf carts zooming around. Million dollar homes peek over the sand dunes and the beach is littered with lovely shells. Since it’s still early in the season the beach was basically uninhabited which allowed me mosey along to my heart’s content.

Hundreds of ships have wrecked off Cape Fear where the shallow sand shoals extend 20 miles out into the ocean. The US Coast Guard was formed here in an effort to save sailors from drowning. The “Graveyard of the Atlantic” starts here and goes up the North Carolina Outer Banks coast and includes the other two capes – Cape Lookout and Cape Hatteras.

Bald Head Island Marina
Marina
Cape Fear. The sand bars reach out 20 miles. Because of all the shipwrecks, the Coast Guard was born here.
Beach at Cape Fear
Cape Fear
Lovely homes
Old Baldy, oldest lighthouse in NC
Craig inside Old Baldy
Cool outdoor bar
Sunset from our bridge

Our stay was made more wonderful by a visit from our dear friends Steve and Judy Bullard, who drove down from Raleigh-Durham, NC to see us. We boated, ate seafood, drank Nixie Lemonade, walked the beach, and had a great time catching up. Thanks for visiting, it was so great to see you!

OMG… Charleston!

On By Niki KozakIn Boating, Cool Places, Travel6 Comments

They say a war for supremacy burns between Savannah and Charleston. These southern cities have a mostly good-natured rivalry to be considered the most beautiful and charming and therefore, the best bang for your tourist dollars. Really? There’s a contest? We don’t see it…

Charleston is the epitome of southern style, grace, and timeless beauty. From the waterfront to the French Quarter to the City Market, I was enchanted by her. She is an intoxicating mix of English elegance, French joue de vivre, a breath of Italian architecture and strong dose of American independence. She’s a jewel.

So many stunning homes
Pineapple Fountain
Lovely Parks
Charleston City Market

Now, for all you Savannah lovers, that party girl did give me a lasting gift and what is more suited to her than a drink recipe! At Belford’s restaurant in the City Market I had a delicious cocktail called Dixie Lemonade. Not too sweet, not too sour, and for some reason, it packs a punch. I promptly created a low cal version for the upcoming summer. The recipe below is for one drink but you can increase the dosage for more people or make a big batch in advance. I usually tweak as I go but this is pretty close:

Nixie Lemonade Recipe

  • 1 shot vodka
  • Dash of Couintreu or Triple Sec
  • Juice from 1/4 of a lemon
  • 4 slices of muddled cucumbers
  • Chrystal Light lemonade powder to taste to sweeten the deal
  • Splash of lemon lime soda
  • Lots of ice

Y’all come back now, ya hear? We’re headed to Bald Head Island near Southport, North Carolina…